Kamaz

Types of starters for VAZ. Car starter - device, principle and features of the starter

In order for an internal combustion engine to start working, its crankshaft must be forced to rotate. Depending on the type of energy used to start the internal combustion engine, the starter design will be very different. There are several ways to start the engine:

The strength of human muscles.
Electric motor.
Pneumatic starting unit.

Since electrical energy is most often used to start a car engine, we will not consider other types of starting devices. Let's consider only the principle of operation of a starter using battery energy.

Types of starters and their components

Gearbox

All starters can be divided into two groups:

Without gearbox.
With gearbox.

The design and operation of a starter belonging to the first and second groups, as the name implies, differs only in the presence or absence of a gearbox.

So, what does an electric car starter consist of? Like any DC motor, it consists of a rotor, stator, and commutator-brush assembly. In addition, to transmit the rotation of the armature to the flywheel, it includes an overrunning clutch with a gear (Bendix), and solenoid relays are used to turn on the rotation and engage the Bendix with the flywheel crown. The fork in the starter transmits force from the retractor relay to the bendix.

Gearless

The design of a car starter with a gearbox, as a rule, differs in that permanent magnets are installed on the stator instead of electromagnet coils. A starter with permanent magnets in the stator differs from those equipped with electromagnets in that it consumes less current and develops less power. Such a starter definitely needs a gearbox to increase torque. Such a device has both its advantages and disadvantages. The advantage is the low current required to start the motor. The disadvantage is that the design is more complex than that of a starter without a gearbox.

The electrical circuit of any automobile starter is similar to that of a DC electric motor with the addition of a solenoid relay circuit.

The connection circuit for a starter with permanent magnets in the stator is the same as for a starting unit with electromagnets. Therefore, when manufactured for the same car model, they are interchangeable.

The principle of operation of a car starter: when the ignition switch is turned to the start position, the starter relay supplies control voltage to the solenoid relays, which engages the Bendix gear with the flywheel ring and turns on the starter, supplying power to it. When the ignition key is turned from the start position to any other position, the starter relay cuts off power to the retractor. The core return spring throws it out of the coil housing. And he disengages the bendix from the flywheel crown and turns off the power.

Retractors

Solenoid relays to reduce current consumption usually have two coils. One coil, made of thicker wire and consuming more current, is activated only when the starter is turned on in order to reliably retract the core. The second one, made of thinner wire, consumes less current. It is designed to hold the core while the ignition key is in the start position. The scheme for their inclusion is as follows:

one terminal of each coil is connected to the control terminal of the relay;
the second terminal of the holding coil is connected to ground.

Since the second terminal of the holding coil is connected to ground, current always flows through it when the ignition key is in the start position. The second terminal of the solenoid coil is connected to the positive terminal of the starter, that is, at the moment power is supplied to the solenoid relays, it is also connected to ground through the stator and rotor coils. Once the retractor operates, it will supply power to the starter. And at both terminals of the retractor coil there will be a positive potential, which means that the current through the retractor coil will stop. From now on, only the holding coil will work. By using two coils, a significant retraction force of the core is achieved with a small holding current.

Bearings

The rotor axis rotates in two copper-graphite bushings, which are plain bearings. Not only the sound that the unit will make during operation depends on their condition. If they are worn excessively, the rotor core plates will touch the stator magnets during operation. When there is no air gap between the rotor plates and the stator magnets, the starter is said to be “shoeing.” The energy losses in this case are so great that its rotor rotates with difficulty and is not able to turn the engine crankshaft.

Losses consist of mechanical energy losses arising due to strong braking of the rotor by the stator, and losses at the commutator-brush assembly, increasing due to transverse vibrations of the armature and deterioration of the contact of the brushes with the commutator lamellas. The losses in the rotor steel increase even more than those described; they become larger due to the short circuit of the armature plates, due to which the eddy currents in the rotor core plates greatly increase. These processes lead to the fact that the current passing through the windings mostly heats them without being converted into mechanical energy.

This problem is corrected by replacing the bushings. There are usually no difficulties in removing worn bushings. It is better to install unexpanded bushings instead. They should be driven through a piece of wood, as they are very fragile. After installation, their inner surface should be treated with a reamer of the appropriate diameter. The diameter of most rotor shafts of passenger car starters is about 12 mm. You will find out more precisely by measuring the shaft after disassembling with a caliper. After unrolling, lightly lubricate the inside of the bushings with lithol and you can assemble the unit. Before installing the unit, do not forget to clean the terminals on the solenoid relay and change the nut and washer securing the power wire, since during operation they become very hot and oxidize.

The starter is designed to start the car engine. It consists of three main parts: a DC motor, an auxiliary relay and a drive gear with an overrunning clutch.

Electric motors are used with electromagnetic excitation or with excitation from permanent magnets. The latter are more modern. They are more compact, simpler, consume less current and have a higher rotation speed, but less torque. Therefore, a gearbox is additionally introduced into the design of such starters to increase torque. The gearbox is planetary, consisting of three gears rotating around a central gear. The design of an electric motor includes a rotor (rotating part) and a stator (stationary part). Power is supplied to the rotor using sliding spring-loaded contacts - brushes. The current consumed by the starter during operation is in the range of 100-200 amperes, and when starting in cold weather it can reach 400 - 500 amperes. This is why it is not recommended to keep the starter on for more than 10-15 seconds.

The solenoid relay is designed to supply power to the electric motor and supply the drive gear to the flywheel ring. When the ignition key is turned to the "Start" position, power is supplied to the relay contacts. In this case, the power supply circuit of the electric motor is closed, and the relay armature engages the gear with the flywheel ring through the drive lever. In more modern starters, the solenoid relay has, in addition to the main winding, also a holding winding. This additional winding is designed to reduce the current consumed by the starter, since much less current is needed to keep the relay in the on state than to start it.

The overrunning clutch ("Bendix") protects the starter motor from damage after the engine starts. As soon as the crankshaft speed exceeds the starter speed, the overrunning clutch disconnects the drive gear and the electric motor shaft.

Starter malfunctions

VISIBLE PROBLEM	CAUSE OF MALFUNCTION	SOLUTION METHOD
When turning the key to start, the starter does not turn on.	The battery is discharged or faulty.	Charge or replace the battery.
	The speed switch is not in the “P” or “N” position (for automatic transmission).	Switch to position "P".
		Check the reliability of the ground contact, clean the contact, tighten the bolts securing the ground wire.
	The transmission lock switch is faulty.	Replace the transmission lock switch.
	The starter control connector is not connected (pin 50).	Check and, if necessary, replace the connector.
		Check the length and freedom of movement of the brushes in the brush holder.
	Solenoid relay defective.	Replace the solenoid relay.
	Severe wear on the armature commutator.	Check and, if necessary, replace the armature commutator.
	There is no contact between the winding and the armature commutator.	Check the armature and replace if necessary.
The starter rotates the engine, but very slowly.	There is no ground wire contact with the engine.	Check the reliability of the ground contact, clean and tighten the bolts securing the ground wire.
	No charging.	See generator malfunctions.
	Worn starter bushings.	Check and replace starter bushings.
	Solenoid relay defective.	Replace the solenoid relay.
	The stator or armature winding has contact with ground.	Check and replace the stator or armature.
	The brushes do not fit tightly to the commutator (they are “stuck” or worn out).	Check the length and ease of movement of the brushes in the brush holder.
	The wire between the starter and battery has poor contact.	Check and replace the wire.
The starter rotates, but the crankshaft stays still.	Bendix wear.	Replace bendix.
The starter rotates, but the crankshaft stays still.	Gearbox parts are destroyed.	Replace the faulty part of the gearbox and bendix.
After the engine starts, the starter rotates along with the flywheel.	Malfunction of the ignition switch contact group.	Replace the lock contact group and repair the starter.
	Solenoid relay malfunction.	Replace the solenoid relay and repair the starter.

A few “bad tips” on how to quickly and effectively disable the starter:

The best way is "Classical". After starting the engine, continue to hold the ignition key in the "Start" position. You can judge the correctness of your actions by the characteristic squeal that every self-respecting starter makes in his death throes. If you are not a sadist by nature, then you can speed up the demise of your favorite starter by stepping on the gas and spinning the engine to 3000-4000 rpm. With the ratio of the flywheel and starter speed somewhere on average 1/20, it is not difficult to calculate the speed with which the Bendix is trying to keep up with the flywheel at such engine speeds. The chase definitely ends with the heavily sweating Bendix overheating and jamming, bringing the fatal ending closer. A jammed bendix pulls either a shaft with a planetary gearbox and an armature, or directly the armature in gearless starters. Then, in just a few seconds, the furiously rotating armature commutator grinds the remaining brushes into powder, and the armature itself heats up to a bluish color. Along the way, sometimes the brush holders come off, the plastic ring of the planetary gearbox shatters into small pieces, and even the starter housing bursts! In short, when instead of a squeal, the starter starts to make an indistinct grunting sound, or light smoke comes out from under the hood, the procedure can be considered complete. Everything should take five minutes maximum! Note also that a faulty ignition switch often takes over control of this operation, especially on diesel cars, where starters, as a rule, have greater power, and accordingly, significantly greater currents flow through the lock contacts, which is why the contacts burn out over time and stick.
Way "Ecological", other names: “Economy”, “For the lazy”, “I don’t want to push!” If the topic of ecology is close to you, then nothing is stopping you from turning your car into an electric vehicle right now. No gas in the tank? And it is not necessary! Feel free to put it in gear and turn the ignition key! Hooray! He's coming!!! This method can also be used when stalled in a large puddle (well, don’t get your feet wet!), when driving into the garage, in general, whenever you are too lazy, don’t want to look for something, figure something out, or generally tear a warm place from a warm one chairs! Well! It’s quite possible to overcome a few hundred meters like this, and this will probably be the starter’s last swan song! Even if you come to your senses halfway, after receiving mortal wounds, the starter is no longer alive in this world. The exhumation of the starters killed in this way shows that their remains are completely identical to the insides of the units killed in the “Classical” way.
Way "Ethereal"- only for diesel drivers. Diesel drivers are frugal people; not everyone will refuel with winter diesel fuel in severe frost. It’s much easier to splash some air where it’s needed - and lo and behold, it seems to start! Just what is that suspicious noise coming from the starter now? Bah! Yes Bendix krantets! Oh, and the starter housing is cracked? A-and: well, there was some kind of detonation during startup: well, what does that have to do with it? And despite the fact that if the fuel injection pump is incorrectly adjusted, or the use of “thinners” like ether, detonation is possible at the moment the engine starts due to earlier ignition of the mixture, and because of which the flywheel crown can make reverse impacts on the bendix. As you know, the compression in diesel engines is about three times higher on average than in gasoline engines; accordingly, the starter experiences three times greater overloads when starting. But if, during detonation, the starter also gets hit in the teeth, then no health is enough - the starter is knocked out. Not only does the bendix break, the front part of the starter (mask) often cannot withstand overloads, and even the steel armature shaft breaks! Diesel drivers! Scrap metal collection points are waiting for you!
Way "Puddle". An old reliable method, tested by many generations of those stubborn people who believe that a car should drive in any weather on any roads. Well, a cold shower for the starter and then warming it up is a good conditioning for a real starter. The only pity is that after this many of them begin to “sneeze”, “cough”, many are suddenly “struck by paralysis” and they simply jam, since often the armature simply rusts permanently along with the stator. Maybe then he could just be removed and drowned, like Gerasim Mu-mu? We highly recommend this method to owners of cars with automatic transmissions, especially for all sorts of “jeeps” and other “road vehicles”, who naively believe that an “SUV” is a comfortable amphibian. But you will greatly strengthen the muscles of your back and shoulder girdle by pushing your stalled carriage out of a swampy forest or a small ford! (One can only guess, how will a tow truck get there? Carrying a car with an automatic transmission on a rope is not even recommended!!!) “A wet starter is the key to health,” - this is what will now become your motto when walking, which the time will certainly come to repair the starter, or search for a new one.

Before repairing electrical equipment, it is necessary to know the design of all the most important components. Every driver should know the device of the car starter, as it is one of the most vulnerable structural elements. A starter is needed to facilitate internal combustion. Used on both gasoline and diesel engines.

But you can start the engine using muscle power, an electric motor, or a pneumatic unit. In passenger cars, you can most often find engine starting using an electric starter. A rechargeable battery is used as a power source.

What types of starters are there?

From the total mass of these mechanisms, two large groups can be distinguished: geared and gearless. How the work happens, as well as the internal structure, is clear from the name itself. If there is no gearbox inside the electric motor, then such a starter is capable of developing a low rotation speed. The presence of a planetary gearbox allows you to achieve higher rotor speeds. In this case, the electric motor itself may have a relatively small power, but it will be enough to spin the crankshaft of the engine.

But there is one big drawback of such mechanisms - reliability is extremely low, they can wear out very quickly and fail. But you shouldn’t think that gearless starters have a longer service life. They also fail, and they also have one significant drawback - if the battery is weakly charged, they are not able to spin the crankshaft.

Main Starter Components

In fact, the design of a car starter and its connection to the on-board network are the same for almost any manufacturer. Regardless of what country the car is made in and to what standards. Devices may differ only in design and product quality, but the overall design will be the same. Several main components can be distinguished:

The rotor is the moving part of the car starter. It has a winding to which electric current is supplied.
The stator is the stationary part. Some electric motor manufacturers install permanent magnets to save money. But it is unwise to do this, since the power of the electric motor is significantly reduced.

Typically, this design is used in Without additional gears, the electric motor is not able to develop the torque necessary to rotate the crankshaft. Such mechanisms have both advantages and quite significant disadvantages. The main advantage is that when starting the engine, the starter consumes very little current. But the design of the unit is much more complicated.

Bendix and overrunning clutch

These are two components that are mounted on the starter rotor. They are necessary in order to transmit torque from the starter rotor to the flywheel crown. Moreover, the gear, which is located on the overrunning clutch, can only rotate in one direction. Therefore, when diagnosing this mechanism, you just need to try turning the gear in both directions.

A retractor relay is installed in the upper part of the starter housing, which acts as a power contact and allows you to move the overrunning clutch with the gear along the rotor axis so that it engages with the flywheel ring. The fork with which the gear moves is made of plastic or metal plates.

How does a starter work?

And now we need to talk about how the car starter rotates the crankshaft. The device and operating principle of this mechanism are simple, but there are several nuances that affect normal functioning. When the key is turned in the ignition switch, voltage is applied to the control contact of the solenoid relay. At the same time, the retractor’s armature moves, and the bendix gear is brought into engagement with the flywheel.

The solenoid relay also closes the power contacts and supplies power to the motor windings. As soon as the key position changes, the power from the control output of the traction relay is cut off. In this case, the spring, which is located inside the relay, will drop the armature and the power contacts will open. At the same time, the bendix will disengage with the flywheel.

Solenoid relay

To reduce current consumption, the relay is manufactured using a circuit that uses two windings. The first one works only at the initial moment of switching on time, so that the retractor relay core fully compresses the spring and closes the contacts.

The second winding, made of thin wire, is called the holding winding. Its purpose is to hold the core in the squeezed position. Features of the winding connection diagram:

Each coil has two terminals. One of them is connected to the control terminal of the solenoid relay.
On the holding coil, the second terminal is connected to ground.

The holding coil is connected to ground and the positive terminal. And current passes through it, but only in the case when the extreme position is “Start”. On the retractor coil, the second contact is connected to the positive terminal of the vehicle's starter motor. The diagram and views are shown in the figures.

When voltage is applied to the solenoid, it passes through the stator and rotor coils and is connected to the power supply negative. In this case, the current will stop flowing through the retractor coil. In this case, only the holding winding will work. By using these two windings, a very high force can be achieved to tighten the core, and also a significant reduction in the current required for holding.

Bushings and brushes

These are two components that greatly influence the normal functioning of the electric motor. The plus of power is transmitted through the brushes, and the minus passes through the bushings to the rotor winding. When disassembling the starter, special attention must be paid to the condition of these components.

If the bushings are worn out, they must be replaced. If the brush assembly is worn excessively, operation of the starter is undesirable. At the same time, you need to check the condition of the lamellas on the rotor. If necessary, they should be cleaned of dirt. But before starting work, carefully study the structure of the car starter in order to carry out the repair as efficiently as possible.

To successfully start an internal combustion engine, you need a device that will give the crank mechanism an initial impulse, that is, it will rotate the flywheel to the required speed. The starter is such a device and is responsible for starting the engine. In this article we will consider in detail the structure and operating principle of a car starter, as well as its possible malfunctions.

Starter device

The car starter is an electric motor. It converts electrical energy from the battery into mechanical work, which drives the flywheel and crankshaft to begin the process of moving the pistons. All engines are equipped with a starter.

Car starter

The principle of operation of the device is based on the laws of physics, which are known from school. If you place a wire frame with two ends between the two poles of a magnet and then pass current through it, it will begin to rotate. This is the simplest electric motor.

A simple car starter consists of a metal case containing four magnetic cores (shoes). These magnets in the housing represent electric motor stator. Previously, an excitation winding was wound on the shoes, to which electric current was supplied from the battery. That is, it was a classical electromagnet. Modern devices use conventional magnets.

Another important part of the device is anchor. It is a shaft with a pressed core made of electrical steel. In the grooves of the core there are the very frames that will rotate around the poles of the magnet. The ends of the frames are connected to a commutator, to which four brushes fit - two positive from the battery and two negative, which will go to ground.

The closing back cover contains brush holders with springs that constantly press the brushes towards the commutator to ensure contact. Also installed in the rear cover is an armature support sleeve or bearing.

Conventional starter device

There is an input contact on the metal case. The positive terminal of the battery (+) is connected to this contact. The current passes through the armature frames and exits to the negative mass brushes. Ground is connected to the negative terminal of the battery. Thus, a magnetic field is created around the armature frame and it rotates.

The positive battery wire that goes to the starter is much thicker than the others. This wire carries a starting current of approximately 400A.

Current from the battery to the starter cannot be supplied continuously. It is only needed when the engine starts. Therefore, between the positive wire of the battery and the starter contact there is a so-called copper penny that closes the contacts.

There is also a spline connection on the armature shaft, on which there is a guide bushing and bendix with a gear with the possibility of axial movement. This movement ensures that the gear contacts directly with the flywheel ring gear. In simple words, we can say that Bendix approaches the flywheel, turns it as much as necessary, and then moves back.

Starter cutaway

But the bendix does not move along the shaft on its own. This makes another smaller electromagnet - solenoid relay. A fork fits from the relay to the gear, which pushes the bendix. The retractor coil is supplied with control current from the battery through the ignition switch. When the ignition is turned on, the coil is magnetized and retracts the core. This core, on the one hand, is connected to the Bendix fork, and on the other, to the nickels that close the contacts of the electric motor. When the voltage from the solenoid relay coil is removed, the plug is pulled back into place and the electric motor stops working.

The armature begins to rotate only when the gear has already engaged with the flywheel.

Main Components

Thus, the main components of the starter can be called:

magnetic stator;
shaft with anchor;
solenoid relay with components (electromagnet, core, contacts);
brush holder with brushes;
bendix with gear;
fork;
body elements.

Principle of operation

Considering the design of the starter, let's consider its operation step by step:

The driver turns on the ignition and control voltage is supplied to the solenoid relay. The relay coil becomes magnetized and moves the core.
The core brings the bendix and gear to the flywheel using a fork and at the end of its stroke closes the contact pins to the electric motor.
The starting current is supplied to the armature winding, which begins to rotate in the magnetic field of the stator. The starter started working.
The engine started and the driver turned the key from the start position. The control current stopped supplying the solenoid relay, the nickels opened, and the bendix and gear returned to their original position under the action of the return spring. The starter has stopped working.

Bendix device

Bendix is a rather interesting device. It is sometimes called a freewheel or freewheel.

Bendix

To start the engine, the flywheel must rotate no slower than 100 rpm. Since the starter gear is much smaller than the flywheel ring gear, it needs to spin 10 times faster to give the flywheel the required acceleration. This is 1000 rpm.

When the engine starts, the flywheel begins to rotate very quickly. It transmits this rapid rotation to the gear. It is easy to calculate that the gear rotation speed will already be 10,000 rpm. If such acceleration was transmitted to the starter shaft, it would not be able to withstand it. This is exactly what Bendix is for. It transmits rotation from the gear to the flywheel, but does not transmit it back from the flywheel to the gear.

Bendix in analysis

The Bendix itself consists of two parts: the gear and the housing. The inner race of the gear fits into the housing with the outer race. Inside this clip there are four rollers with springs. The bendix housing rotates through the starter shaft. When rotating, the inner race of the gear seems to jam in the housing and rotates, and when the gear rotates from the flywheel, these rollers diverge and do not transmit rotation to the shaft. The starter shaft itself rotates at the same speed.

Types of starters

As described above, modern starters do not use shoes with an excitation winding, but magnets. Magnets as a stator can significantly reduce the dimensions of the device. In this case, the rotation speed of the armature increases. Therefore, a gearbox is sometimes used.

Based on this, starters are divided into:

gear;
simple (gearless).

We have already become familiar with the structure and operation of a simple starter. The operation of a gearbox is based on the same principles as a simple one, but has a slightly different device. The torque from the armature first goes to the planetary gearbox, which converts it, and then to the bendix shaft. Rotation from the armature to the gear is transmitted through the planetary gear carrier.

This type of starter has the following advantages:

higher efficiency;
less current consumption;
small sizes;
starting the engine even when the battery charge is low.

But this design affects the complexity of repairs.

Basic faults

All possible types of starter malfunctions can be divided into mechanical and electrical.

Mechanical components may be associated with:

Contact pads sticking.
Wear of bearings and retaining bushings.
Wear of bendix rollers.
The plug or core of the solenoid relay is jammed.

Electrical problems:

Production of brushes and commutator plates.
Open circuit in the winding of the shoes (stator) or the solenoid relay.
Short circuit and burnout of windings.

The brushes and solenoid relay cannot be repaired. These parts are replaced with new ones. It is better to entrust winding repairs to a qualified auto electrician.

The starter is a rather complex mechanism that requires attention from the driver. It is better to eliminate any noises and rattles promptly. But despite the overall complexity of the device, the principle of its operation is very simple. Once you understand it, you can fix many problems yourself.

The starter is an electromechanical device. This suggests that the principle of operation of the starter is to use the electrical energy of the battery and convert it into mechanical energy.

Internal structure of the unit:

The starter is divided into 5 main elements:

The body is made of steel and is shaped like a cylinder. On the outer wall there are 4 field windings (usually there are 4 or more) and cores (aka “poles”). Everything is held together with screw connections. The screw is twisted into a core to press the winding against the wall. The body has special holes for fastening the front part of the device, where the overrunning clutch moves.
The armature is an axis made of special steel onto which the armature and commutator plates are pressed. The cores have special grooves for laying armature windings. The ends of the winding are fixed to the collector plate. The collector plates are located on a circle and mounted on a dielectric platform. The diameter of the core depends on the diameter of the body. The anchor is secured to the front and back covers using bushings made of copper and steel. Bushings are also bearings.
The traction relay is installed on the body of the device. In the rear part of the power relay housing there are contacts - “nickels”, a movable jumper contact made of soft metal. “Pyataks” are simple bolts driven into the cover of the traction relay. Using nuts, the battery power wires, as well as the wires of the positive brushes, are put on it. The core is connected to the overrunning clutch using a rocker arm called a Benedix (the name comes from the name of the American engineer Benedix who created it).
The Benedix is tightly mounted on the shaft and is a roller mechanism connected to a meshing gear in the flywheel crown. When torque is applied to the Benedix, the cage rollers move out of the grooves, firmly fixing the gear to the outer race. Rotating in the opposite direction, the rollers enter the separator, and the gear begins its rotation, independent of the outer race.
Through the brush holder, direct voltage is applied to the copper and graphite brushes, which is transferred to the armature commutator plates. In appearance, the brush holder is a dielectric cage with metal inserts, and the brushes are located inside it. The brush contacts are welded to the point plates. The pole plates are the tails of the field windings.

In order for a car engine to be able to start, the following processes occur in its depths:

after closing the contacts in the ignition switch, the current is directed through the starter relay to the pull-in winding of the traction relay;
the armature of the retractor relay, moving inside the housing, pushes the bendix out of the housing and engages its gear with the flywheel ring;
when the armature of the retractor relay reaches the end point, the contacts close and current flows to the holding winding of the relay and the winding of the starter motor;
The rotation of the starter shaft causes the machine engine to start. After the speed of rotation of the flywheel exceeds the speed of rotation of the starter shaft, the bendix disengages from the ring and is set to its original position using a return spring;
When the key in the ignition switch returns to the first position to start the engine, the supply of electricity to the starter is stopped.

Among the starter malfunctions, the following should be noted:

turning on the starter does not develop the required engine speed (it turns slowly);
turning on the starter provokes the grinding of the starter gear, which is not engaged;
the starter is not activated;
the starter armature rotates, but the unit does not turn the crankshaft;
The starter does not turn off after starting the engine.

The reasons for these problems are:

poor starter connection or weak starter pole connection;
inappropriate oil in the engine crankcase;
battery failure or discharge;
poor brush contact or loose wire ends;
short circuit in the starter windings;
the drive moves heavily along the shaft;
the teeth of the flywheel ring have become unusable;
the travel of the drive gear and the closing moment of the switch contacts is not adjusted properly;
there is no contact when the ignition is turned on or the ignition switch has become unusable;
the starter drive buffer spring is weakened;
blocking the drive on the armature shaft;
burning of relay contacts or its unsuitability for operation;
bearing wear;
the drive gear is “late” to disengage from the ring gear.

Only timely diagnostic measures, as well as high-quality, professional service will prevent such incidents, and if this has already happened - use the services of specialists from our StarteR Service Center.

Signs and causes of starter malfunction:

Question: why doesn't the starter turn on?

Answer: The contact connections may be broken, something has broken in the starter circuits, or the cause may be a short circuit. In addition, there may be a problem inside the traction relay.

Question: Where does the clicking sound come from when the starter starts?

Answer: The cause may be a discharged battery, loose contacts in the starter circuit, or a malfunction of the traction relay winding.

Question: Why does the armature not rotate when the starter is turned on, and if it does rotate, it is slow?

Answer: This happens mainly due to a discharged battery. In addition, the reasons may be burnt contacts of the traction relay, broken contact connections, a dirty commutator, old brushes, or a short circuit may have occurred in the windings.

Question: What is the reason for the ignition switch sticking in the Start position?

Answer: Most likely, the bendix did not come out of the clutch that was with the flywheel. The motor spun the starter armature, causing the starter to burn out.

Question: Why does the ignition always stick?

Answer: The reason is the starter working after starting the engine. There is no point in repairs, because the starter will break anyway.

Question: What is the secret to quick starter wear?

Answer: when the engine starts, the starter armature rotates at a frequency of one and a half thousand per minute; due to a couple of extra seconds, the number of revolutions increases by about 5 thousand. Therefore, the life of bushings, brushes, bendix, forks and commutators is exhausted faster.

Question: Why didn't the starter turn off after starting the engine?

Answer: The cause may be a malfunction of the freewheel in the starter or the contacts inside the traction relay are caked.

Question: What happens if the starter armature rotates when turned on, but the flywheel remains stationary?

Answer: all due to damage to the teeth of the flywheel or drive gear, problems with the lever, loose fastenings to the clutch housing starter, slipping of the device clutch, or problems with the drive ring.

Question: What is the reason for loss of starter power in a warm car?

Answer: such a loss is hidden:

in mounting bolts;
in mounting locations;
among rotten power wires under the braid;
in oxidized areas where wires and contact terminals are compacted;
on rusty mounting bolts and nuts.

Instructions for use:

It must be remembered that the starter is a powerful electric motor, but only short-term. Don't forget about this, try to follow the important instructions:

Turn on the starter for no more than 10 seconds. If the car engine does not start, leave the starter alone for 30 seconds, as it cools extremely slowly. After 2-3 unsuccessful engine starts, take a 4-minute break.

Watch the contacts in the battery terminals. It often happens that the terminals oxidize and the starter does not accept the current it needs, as a result of which it does not develop sufficient torque. The engine does not start, and instead of cleaning the terminals, we take the unit in for repair. Of course, the masters will explain the reason, but the time is wasted.

After starting the engine, turn off the starter. If this is not done, then 2-3 seconds will simply destroy the node. After all, when starting the engine, the starter armature has a rotation speed of 1500 rpm, and after starting, the armature will begin to rotate at a speed many times greater (if the bendix is engaged with the engine flywheel). An increase in speed will lead to increased wear on all starter parts, which will lead to complete destruction of the unit. Watch this moment, do not allow such meaningless rotation. The same effect is inherent in the case of malfunctions of the ignition switch.

Do not move the vehicle using the starter. It is worth considering that the lower the speed, the more current flows to the starter windings. If you put the car on the handbrake, engage the gear, and then turn on the starter, then after 30 seconds of such madness the windings of the assembly will simply burn out, and the battery will also become unusable.

Take care of your car, and it will come to your aid more than once.