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Installing a radio in a car with your own hands. Car radio connection diagram, radio connector pinout, speaker polarity for dummies. DVD radio connection diagram

Installing or replacing a car radio in a car is possible independently by any motorist who does not spend money on everything. If you have big problems with your hands, then it is better to contact a car service - it will definitely work out cheaper and much faster. The following is an article for those who have “direct hands” and whose last name is not Rockefeller. :) The connection diagram for different radios in different cars remains the same, but there are various nuances and features. Unfortunately, we are still far from universal standardization and interchangeability.
Depending on the installation method, car radios or receivers can be built-in or stationary.

To protect against theft, built-in radios are often equipped with a removable front panel; previously, guide slides with a lock were used to quickly remove the entire device.
Stationary car radios are protected from theft by their original shape and non-standard dimensions. They fit a certain brand of car, which deprives them of versatility. As a rule, such radios are installed by car manufacturers on the assembly line. Containers under the radio in some car models are equipped with a special curtain - the device is quite simple, but very effective against car thieves.

Modern radio tape recorders come in two height sizes - one block and two block (or single-din and double-din). European manufacturers mostly produce 1DIN (single-block) car radios. And the car must have a suitable niche size. Japanese, American, as well as Korean companies present equipment twice as high in height, for a corresponding niche for installation in a car, which is called 2DIN. This is the main thing you need to pay attention to when buying a car radio for your car.

Next are the connectors. Different radios and cars may have different types of connectors. Therefore, you need to look at what connector is in the car before buying a radio. If the connector in the purchased radio does not match the car connector, then that’s okay too.
Option 1 (preferred) - there are a large number of different adapters, the main thing is to choose the right one. Special adapters are also produced that allow you to switch from original pads to the ISO standard.
Option 2 - Unpick the connector and connect directly. An extreme method, but knowing the scheme, you won’t be left without music.

The most common connector for connecting a car radio is ISO 10487. First of all, check its availability in your car.

If you have one, then you just need to make sure the pinout of your connector is correct.

For inputs to the radio, almost all manufacturers adhere to standard color coding of wires.

- Yellow wire(BAT) - to constant +, regardless of the position of the ignition switch, directly to the battery through a 10-20A fuse;

-Red wire(ACC) - to the ignition switch terminal, on which + appears when the ignition key is turned. On many foreign cars there is already a separate wire in the block. You just need to find it (quite simply with the help of a tester or a control light). Or, if difficulties arise, to any terminal where +12 appears when the ignition is turned on.

- Black wire- this is minus or mass, which is the same thing. Connects to the body with a good contact. ( there is a constant minus).

- Blue/white - blue wire(REM) is a control wire that, when the radio is turned on, automatically turns on the car amplifier or active antenna.

- Orange wire car radio (or variations) (ILL) - connects to the light switch terminal or to any other terminal where +12 appears when the side lights or headlights are turned on.

- Yellow - black wire(variations) (MUTE) - this is a remote control that turns off the sound or mutes it. Connects to the corresponding wire of your car Hands. If the kit is missing, do not connect it anywhere. This is an option and does not affect the performance of the radio or the quality of work.

The outputs of the radio are the acoustic wires to the speakers. They have paired colors. A specific speaker is connected to each color pair:

White pair of wires- front left speaker;

Gray couple- front right speaker;

Green couple- rear left speaker;

Purple couple- rear right speaker.

Each pair of speaker wires consists of a solid wire and a wire with a black stripe. The black stripe indicates the negative wire.
It is very important to ensure that the speaker wires are connected correctly, otherwise, if the color scheme is not followed, the balance adjustment will not be correct; if the polarity is not observed, the rear speakers will play in antiphase, which will manifest itself as a lack of bass.

General car radio connection diagram

Schematic, letter symbols found in instructions for connecting radio tape recorders of various brands

Acoustic group:
- R = Speaker right.
- L = Speaker left.
- FR+, FR- or RF+, RF- = Front speaker - right (plus or minus, respectively).
- FL+, FL- or LF+, LF- = Front speaker - left (plus or minus, respectively).
- RR+, RR- = Rear speaker - right (plus or minus, respectively).
- LR+, LR- or RL+, RL- = Rear speaker - left (plus or minus, respectively).
- GND SP = Speaker ground.

Power connector:
- B+ or BAT or K30 or Bup+ or B/Up or B-UP or MEM +12 = Battery powered (plus)

GND or GROUND or K31 or just a minus = Common wire (Ground), battery minus.

A+ or ACC or KL 15 or S-K or S-kont or SAFE or SWA = +12 from the ignition switch.

N/C or n/c or N/A = No contact. (Physically the output is there but not connected anywhere).

ILL or LAMP or sun symbol or 15b or Lume or iLLUM or K1.58b = Panel illumination. +12 volts are supplied to the contact when the side lights are turned on. Some radios have two wires, -iLL+ and iLL-. The negative wire is galvanically isolated from ground.

Ant or ANT+ or AutoAnt or P.ANT = After turning on the radio, +12 volts are supplied from this contact to control the retractable antenna, if one is present, of course.

MUTE or Mut or mu or the image of a crossed out speaker or TEL or TEL MUTE = Input to turn off or mute the sound when receiving a phone call or other actions (for example, reversing).

Other possible contacts:

Amp = External amplifier power-on control pin
-DATA IN = Data input
-DATA OUT = Data output
-Line Out = Line Out
-REM or REMOTE CONTROL = Control voltage (Amplifier)
-ACP+, ACP- = Bus lines (Ford)
-CAN-L = CAN bus line
-CAN-H = CAN bus line
-K-BUS = Bidirectional serial bus (K-line)
-SHIELD = Shielded wire braid connection.
-AUDIO COM or R COM, L COM = Common (ground) input or output of preamplifiers
-CD-IN L+, CD-IN L-, CD-IN R+, CD-IN R- = Balanced linear inputs of audio signal from the changer
-SW+B = Switches power to +B battery.
-SEC IN = Second input
-DIMMER = Change display brightness
-ALARM = Connection of alarm contacts for the radio to perform car security functions (PIONEER radios)
-SDA, SCL, MRQ = Communication buses with the vehicle display.
-LINE OUT, LINE IN = Line output and input, respectively.
-D2B+, D2B- = Optical audio link

If, when connecting a DVR or navigator, interference appears to radio reception, the reason is not in the radio. Remedies follow the link.

    When powering the radio, red and yellow wires are used. Yellow is intended to power the memory, and red is used to turn off the radio and assumes the presence of an output to the ignition switch. This means that after turning off the ignition, the car radio will automatically turn off. The most convenient option is to connect the yellow and red wires in parallel, then the radio will turn off only when you press a button on the radio panel.

However, in this case, problems may arise due to the fact that the radio amplifiers are powered by the red wire, including in standby mode. Therefore, current consumption increases, which means the battery may discharge faster. In order to avoid this situation, you can put a separate switch on the red wire of the radio, then the power will turn off automatically when the car is parked for a long time.
If you have a radio with an internal battery to save settings, then use a circuit with a complete power cut when the radio is turned off. Then your main battery on the car is guaranteed not to be discharged during long-term parking through the receiver.

At the end, we test the sound and correct operation of all functions (front/rear balance, left/right speakers, frequencies, radio waves). If the phasing and installation of the speakers was carried out correctly, then there should be no wheezing or interference during playback.

If you come across a car radio that needs to be installed, but the connection diagram is missing - there is no pinout. You need to pay attention to the color of the wires that come from the radio. The color of the connector wires is an ISO standard that matches all head units.

We take a seemingly “scary” bundle of wires into our hands and figure out what each wire means and connects.

Black- Minus
Red- Plus permanent
Yellow- connect to the ignition switch - the ON position appears as a plus. For those who like to listen to music without an ignition key, you need to twist the red and yellow together and to a constant plus. But keep in mind that in almost all radios, when turned on this way, 100-200mA of current is consumed
Blue- when the radio is turned on, a plus appears, low-current output - backlight

On Chinese radios The red and yellow wires may be reversed; after turning off the ignition, the car radio settings will be reset.

4 speaker outputs

Light wires - front speakers

White front left
Gray front right

Dark wires - rear speakers

Purple - rear right
Green - rear left

Determining the correct placement of speakers. For example, there are 8 wires connected to the head unit and it is quite difficult to understand which speaker is front or rear.

We take a regular AA or AAA AA battery and connect it to the wires of each speaker for 1 second. The speaker will make a squeaking noise. In this way, you can easily determine which speaker is located on the left or right.

How to determine speaker polarity

We also press the wire to the AA battery (on which it is indicated where - and where +), if the diffuser moves up, then the polarity is correct, that is, the wire that touches the plus on the battery will correspond plus on the speaker. If the speaker cone goes down, in this case plus speakers will be on the negative terminal of the battery.

Surely every car enthusiast has come up with the idea of ​​using a car radio, in addition to the interior of the car, whether in the garage, in the country, or even in the space of his room.
Well, why not? After all, even the most standard car radio, the price of which is not comparable to the price of a music center, has normal output data and is not from the most famous manufacturer, is capable of “boosting” home speakers without loss in sound reproduction quality.
And if, in addition, the car radio has a multi-channel output, then by connecting all the provided acoustics to it, we end up with an almost complete home theater, assembled with our own hands.

Selecting a car radio

Since by default, to create a homemade one, we will use a device lying around idle, any car radio will suit us.
But this “any” should still have a minimum set of functions:

  • At least two-channel output with a power of 40 W each;
  • Tuner;
  • CD/DVD/MP3 disc player;
  • USB – connector for reading information from flash drives.

In addition, you should pay attention to the sound card of the device itself. Some radios can even surpass most modern music centers in terms of purity and sound quality.
And although, due to the fact that the car radio does not have large and capacitive capacitors in its “arsenal”, due to which it loses in the reproduction of low frequencies to powerful stationary acoustic systems, it is definitely at its best in the reproduction of the high-frequency range. Another definite advantage of the car radio is the presence of a multi-stage frequency-separate equalizer, while most stationary music centers are equipped with only standard presets.

Creating a home speaker system

So, the essence of the issue is clear to us. The car radio with speakers (see) have been lying nearby on the table for a long time and are “asking for battle.” Now we are the only ones who don’t understand how we can “connect” 12-volt equipment with a 220-volt alternating network?
I must tell you that this problem has several solutions, which are contained in the instructions below on how to connect a car radio from a 220 network.

Method one: connection via a homemade step-down transformer

This method is the most complex and time-consuming. Although the level of modern electronic technology allows us to completely abandon it, due to the fact that we are considering all the ways to connect car radios to 220 V, we will still pay due attention to it.

Preparation

So, before connecting the car radio to the 220 network, we will have to create a transformer that steps down to 12 volts with our own hands.
Why do we need:

  • A similar (see photo) transformer that converts the standard network voltage to a lower one (in our case, 36 volts);
  • Insulating material;
  • Wire of suitable cross-section and length;
  • Multimeter/voltmeter;
  • A calculator, although the calculations are not at all complicated, you can get by with a piece of paper and a pen.

Creation

In order to make the task as easy as possible and not disassemble the transformer winding itself, we use the free space of the magnetic core area. We wrap the free area of ​​the magnetic circuit with insulating material and wind a piece of the wire of our choice onto it of any length.
Let's say we got seven turns.
In order to calculate the number of turns and wire length required to reduce the voltage, we need to perform the following procedures:

  • We assemble a circuit for switching on a transformer using a piece of wire wound around a magnetic conductor and measure the output voltage;
  • The multimeter gave a value of 2.9 volts. This means that we have 0.41 volts per turn of the secondary winding. From this ratio we obtain the number of turns required for an output of 12 volts: divide 12 by 0.41 and get 30 turns;
  • We measure the length of the wire spent on the experimental seven turns, we get 126 centimeters. That is, there are 18 centimeters per turn (126 divided by 7), which means that for 30 turns we will need 540 centimeters of wire.
  • Next, we wind this whole “thing” onto a magnetic circuit, assemble the circuit and check our calculations with a multimeter.

For aesthetics and convenience, we attach an additional block to the bracket and connect the leads to it.

Don’t flatter yourself, in addition to the work done, we will need to connect a diode bridge to the resulting device to rectify the current and remove its ripple (you can take the most common diodes - D226). Then connect with the load, in series, a choke with high inductance (can be from a tube receiver or from a 402-watt LDS) and in parallel two capacitors K50-18 50 volts, 10,000 µF each.
As a result, the whole scheme should look something like this:

Advice! All of the components listed can be found in a discarded tube TV.

The diode bridge can be made from individual diodes...

...so in the form of a monolithic structure (assembly) ...

...which is preferable due to its low cost and compactness. The only drawback can be considered its complete non-repairability, since if one diode fails, you will have to change the entire monolith.

Connection

Next, we assemble the entire circuit, place the resulting structure in a pre-prepared case, connect the car radio with speakers and enjoy the music with friends. At the same time, as if by chance, he uttered the phrase “homemade music center” in a conversation with them)))

Method two: connection via a stationary power supply

As we previously found out, all car radios are “powered” by direct current and require 12 volts for their needs, no more and no less. Just these output parameters have stationary uninterruptible power supplies and various network adapters.

Selecting a power supply

When choosing this device, you need to pay attention to the output current, it must be at least five amperes. It should be borne in mind that at maximum loads, the car radio can consume up to 10-15 amperes, but I repeat - only at maximum loads!
Of course, there are also more powerful power supplies on sale, created specifically for these purposes, but their price is such that the entire feasibility of creating a homemade speaker system is nullified.

Connection

We cut off the standard connector of the car radio, which is intended for connection to the car, and strip the ends of the power wires to connect them to the network adapter or uninterruptible power supply. The speaker wiring can be left in the old connectors and the acoustic circuit can be assembled using standard “connectors”.
In general, the car radio connection diagram looks like this:

Naturally, instead of a battery, we mean an uninterruptible power supply or a network adapter that produces the necessary stable 12 volts at the output. As you can see from the photo, the connection is not complicated: we connect the radio as usual and enjoy pleasant music.

Method three: connecting via a power supply from a desktop computer

Since the topic of the article has already been fully covered and the meaning of the third method is already clear, let’s get straight to the point.

Preparing the power supply for operation

The advantage of this method is that finding an old and working computer power supply is not difficult at all, and the demand for used devices is so low that it can be purchased at any radio market or in a computer workshop for almost nothing.
Although, in most cases, used power supplies from personal computers are in working condition, before connecting to the car radio, it must be checked, and if it needs to be prepared for operation:

  • First, turn on the power supply and check its output voltages;
  • Even if the power supply has started, the output voltages are in order and its fan is spinning, it is still worth opening its case, clearing out all the dust and inspecting the contacts of the printed circuit board for poor soldering;

Attention! Before each opening of the power supply, it must be disconnected from the network!

  • Particular attention should be paid to the electrolytic capacitors of the current output rectifiers. If they have a broken serif or are swollen, they should be replaced.

Attention! High voltage electrolytic capacitors have a residual current charge sufficient to cause a mild, very unpleasant electric shock.

Advice! Before you begin repairing the power supply yourself, you need to discharge the high-voltage electrolytic capacitors of the output current rectifier by connecting a resistor with a resistance of 100 or 200 kOhm in parallel to the capacitor contacts for a few seconds.

Well, to complete the preparation of the computer power supply, for greater solidity, it can be painted from an aerosol can with spray paint (available for sale at any car store) to match the color of the interior of the room or the entire speaker system.

Preparing to connect an AT type power supply

Each computer power supply has several power harnesses with output connectors, where the black wire is negative or common, and the yellow wire supplies the 12 volts we need.

Since the AT format computer unit does not have a standby power supply “+5” or otherwise known as “Standby” and an output voltage of 3.3 volts, when it is turned on, its outputs “+12V”, “+5V”, “-12V” ", "-5V" voltage appears immediately. Therefore, if you have an “a-tech” power supply (AT), the necessary wires are “bitten off”, and the entire above acoustic circuit is connected to the power wires of the car radio.

Preparing to connect an ATX power supply

In the case of an ATX type power supply, some modification is required. The fact is that this type of PSU (power supply) is equipped with a standby current source with a voltage of +5 volts (Standby).
This standby current source operates constantly when the power supply is connected to a 220-volt network and puts the entire system into “sleep” mode. Therefore, if you want the specified voltages “+12V”, “-12V”, “+5V”, “-5V” to appear on the output channels immediately after turning on the power supply. “+3.3V”, you need to close its connector contacts by installing a jumper on the black and green wires.

Connecting to the car radio power supply

You probably already know that the car radio also has sleep and operating modes, and as soon as the driver closes the electrical circuit by turning the ignition key, the car radio automatically switches from the “sleep” mode to the “active” mode.
It follows from this that if we connect the main wires of the car radio, black - minus (Ground) and yellow - plus (Battery), to which the voltage of the car’s on-board network is connected, to the corresponding terminals of the power supply, the car radio will not turn on, it will be in “sleeping” state. mode. In order to eliminate this misunderstanding, we will have to find the red wire marked “ACC”, which in the standard circuit is connected to the ignition switch, and connect it to the yellow wire of the car radio, after which the car radio will start immediately when voltage is applied to it.

This concludes the instructions on how to connect a car radio from a 220 network with your own hands. In conclusion, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that for the “home” version, car radios with a remote control are very convenient.
Agree, in a car the remote control mostly lies idle, but at home it’s not very convenient to get up and go to the radio every time to change the track or adjust the volume. With the remote control, the process of listening to music will be much easier and more comfortable.

Share with your friends!

To begin with, it is worth noting that incorrectly connecting the car radio can lead to low-quality sound of low power or damage to the speaker system. If such a warning does not scare you and you have a great desire to do everything yourself, then let’s try to figure out this issue together and understand how to properly install the car radio. To complete the job you will need electrical tape, a tester and a screwdriver. The entire installation process can take from 5 minutes to several hours. The following recommendations are applicable in 85% of cases of radio assembly.

Standard ISO connector for modern radios

The car has several configuration options with special connectors and conductors for installing an audio system:

  1. The conductors in the car are routed to the rear and front speakers, while the power wires come from the battery, and the positive cable is equipped with a separate fuse. The wires are connected to a special connector, which is identical to the socket in the radio. The cord from the antenna is also brought out and fits to the installed audio system.
  2. All the necessary wires for installation are supplied and connected to the connector, however, the plug does not fit into the car radio socket.
  3. There are no speaker wires in the vehicle, and the power wires are not routed out. Also, the wires may be present, but not connected correctly.

We will not dwell on the first option in detail, since everything is clear here and you only need to connect the existing power wires and insert the connector. In any case, it is necessary to check whether everything is ready for the new audio system and make sure that the wiring and speakers correspond to the output power of the radio.

Consider in detail the second option, when the car wiring connector does not match the audio system socket. The problem is that almost every company installs individual types of connection connectors on its radios. Different models from the same manufacturer may have completely different outputs. In this case, most often the car radio is supplied with a separate adapter for the ISO standard.

Before performing any actions to resolve the problem, you must finally make sure that the adapter is not included in the kit or that it does not fit. There are two ways to get out of this difficult situation:


To prevent confusion, connect the connector to the radio and bite off the remaining part. The connection of the audio system and car wires is carried out in accordance with the color marking. It is best to solder the connections and then insulate them using heat-shrinkable cambric.

In the case where the colors of the wires are different and do not match, they will need to be tested, and, most likely, the missing wires will need to be laid. To perform this action, you should arm yourself with a tester or a special multimeter with a beeper and a separate 9-volt battery.

Attention! Any manipulations with the wiring are carried out only with the battery disconnected!

We will not dwell in detail on the process of dialing with a multimeter. Let's look at why a battery is needed and how it is used.

If you ring the speakers and do not disconnect the wires from them, two wires should ring. This will be a pair for a specific speaker. It is to determine their polarity that you need a battery. It is connected to a pair of wires, and then you need to monitor the movement of the speaker cone.

If the diffuser moves outward, then the polarity is selected correctly. The wire that was connected to the plus of the battery is marked as “+”, and to the minus – “-”. If the diffuser retracts, it means that the polarity is chosen incorrectly and the wires must be marked in reverse. The battery is connected to the speaker for just one second.

Marking and color coding of wires

Installing a car radio with your own hands will require knowledge of wire markings:

  • Black (indicated by GROUND or GND). Minus battery;
  • Red (ACC or A+ marking). Plus ignition switch;
  • Yellow (designated BAT or B+). Plus from the battery;
  • White with stripe (marked FL-). Minus front left speaker;
  • White without stripe (designated FL+). Plus front left speaker;
  • Gray with stripe (marked FR-). Minus right front speaker;
  • Gray without stripe (designated FR+). Plus right front speaker;
  • Green with stripe (marked RL-). Minus left rear speaker;
  • Green without stripe (designation RL+). Plus left rear speaker;
  • Purple with stripe (marked RR-). Minus right rear speaker;
  • Purple without stripe (designation RR+). Plus the right rear speaker.

In addition to the main wires, an audio system may have additional ones, say blue with or without a white stripe, which is intended for connecting an antenna, orange for turning on the backlight, and others.

How to connect a car radio

Consider in detail the option when installing and connecting the audio system needs to be done from scratch. At the first stage, you need to buy a complete set of wires to connect speakers and power. The length of the wires depends on the characteristics of the vehicle and the chosen installation method. It is best when they are as short as possible and do not have additional twists. A good solution would be to purchase stranded copper wires with silicone insulation. Their thickness should be sufficient to ensure the most efficient operation of the audio system. Power wires with a cross-section of 4 mm. sq. Suitable for car radios with power up to 120 W. In this case, the wires to the speakers have a cross-section of 1-2 mm. sq. quite enough.

The positive power wire must have a thickness of at least 4 sq. mm. and be equipped with a fuse

Often, the same set of speakers contains connecting wires that do not meet the required thickness.

Connecting speakers

Modern audio systems are most often designed to serve 4 speakers. These are two rear speakers and two front ones. Radio tape recorders that produce a power of 30 W or more per channel have four pairs of wires. Each pair has its own color marking. Also in each bundle there is a wire without a stripe (plus) and with a stripe (minus).

You should not confuse the polarity, although this is not so bad. It is strictly forbidden to ground the wire with the strip (minus) that comes from the radio to ground, since it has absolutely nothing to do with the total mass of the car. The speakers themselves are equipped with two terminals (one narrow, the other wide). Low power radios may only have one positive wire per speaker. In such a situation, the minus of the speakers must be connected to the common minus of the audio system. The positive wire coming from the car radio is attached to the wide terminal, and the negative wire to the narrow terminal.

When connecting speakers, pay attention to the polarity, this will allow you to achieve better sound.

Correct phasing should be given special attention. If the pluses and minuses are connected correctly, then you can expect that no problems will arise and the audio system will work properly. In this case, a situation may arise when the sound quality does not meet the required expectations. There is sound, the volume is excellent, however, the low frequencies are practically not felt, and increasing the bass does not change anything at all.

The described circumstances are a sign of incorrect phasing. It will be necessary to check the connecting wires very carefully and reconnect them in those places where necessary.

There is another simpler way to track the correct phasing:

  1. The sound needs to be transferred completely to the front speakers, and then set the balance to one speaker, for example, to the right. The volume must be increased to maximum levels or until noticeable distortion appears.
  2. Next, the balance should be moved to the middle position, thereby distributing the volume evenly between the left and right speakers. If phasing is done correctly, the overall volume will increase significantly. A slight increase in volume, no increase in volume, or complete disappearance of low frequencies indicates incorrect phasing. Then you need to swap the wires on one speaker. The same procedure should be repeated on the rear row of speakers.

Almost all modern car radios use three wires of yellow, red and black to supply power. The battery negative corresponds to the black wire. Yellow is a plus of the battery and powers power consumers. If for certain reasons the yellow wire has deteriorated, it is necessary to completely replace it with a new one of the appropriate cross-section. The red wire is the positive wire for the ignition switch.

Detailed car radio connection diagram

First you need to figure out how to connect the black and yellow wires. Many motorists connect the black wire to the first free ground bolt, and the yellow wire is connected from the ignition switch or cigarette lighter. In fact, this method is wrong.

By connecting these wires to the battery you can get high-quality, high-power sound. It is best to take multi-core copper wires with a thickness of 4 square meters or more. mm. Having retreated 30-40 cm, a 10-20 A fuse with good insulation is installed on the yellow wire. The red wire also has a positive value, however, it must be connected to the ignition switch. And to be very precise, it connects to the circuit that is energized in the ACC key position.

It happens that car enthusiasts connect the yellow and red wires together. The advantage of such actions is that the audio system is constantly working and does not depend on turning the ignition on or off. Of course, the downside in this case is that the radio is in standby mode all the time. This will affect battery performance. The battery drain rate will increase. This indicator depends on each individual radio, so it is quite problematic to specifically calculate how quickly the battery will drain.

Antenna connection

External view of an active interior car antenna

The antenna comes in passive and active types. Connecting a passive antenna is very simple. To do this, you just need to insert the plug into the appropriate socket. But installing an active antenna requires a little work, since power needs to be supplied to it. Most modern car radios have a special output. It is a blue wire with or without a white stripe and is labeled REM, ANT, or AMP. Sometimes there are two such wires. They are responsible for turning on devices that operate only when the audio system is being used. In our example, it is the antenna that is such a device.

The raised question of how to connect a radio and the direction of car audio is not just the topic of a separate article. In fact, this is a whole science, for the study of which there is a huge amount of manuals, information and books. In this article, we tried to dwell only on the most important aspects and details of installing an audio system.

Pioneer radios are one of the most popular in the world. Both budget and expensive models are produced under this brand. Connecting them usually does not cause problems, but an inexperienced car enthusiast may make a mistake that will lead to problems with the operation of the car radio.

Preliminary work

What should you consider during installation? It is necessary to ensure that when parked for a long time, the head unit does not discharge the battery. It is important for many drivers to be able to use their equipment even with the ignition off.

  1. If there is an old radio in the car, it must be removed. For this you will need a screwdriver. To ensure safety, disconnect the battery.
  2. Remove the decorative trim (in most cases it is more convenient to do this from right to left, opening the glove box).
  3. Remove the screws that secure the head unit and the air duct cover. The cover can be removed (not necessary, but this will increase ease of use). But the “Emergency Stop” button does not have to be disconnected from the power supply.
  4. Remove the radio and turn off the on-board computer screen. Remove it from the bracket. Done, you got rid of the old device - you can install a new one.

Video: dismantling an old radio in a car without special tools

Dimensions and connectors

Radio tape recorders are available in single-block and double-block (1 and 2 din). European manufacturers, as a rule, produce 1 din equipment. Japanese, Korean and American usually work with 2 din - such models have 2 times the height, so the car must have a niche of the appropriate size.

Different radios and cars have different connectors. Most often, the head unit is connected via ISO 10487. Before purchasing, check whether the car has it. There is no - it’s okay, the problem can be dealt with in two ways:

  • use adapters that allow you to switch from conventional pads to ISO;
  • connect directly (the method requires at least a little experience in working with wires).

Marking of tape recorder wires

Before starting installation, examine the wires on the new radio. Typically, two ISO connectors are supplied with head units for easy connection. They consist of a group of contacts (each with 8 pieces). One connector connects to the power supply, the second to the sound reproduction system. If your car does not have the appropriate port, disconnect the connector from the wires and connect the equipment using the twisting method.

The wire insulation is colored differently for easy identification. Each of them has its own functions.

  • The wide yellow wire is designed to connect to the battery. It must be connected to power only through a fuse.
  • The wide red wire is connected to the battery through the ignition switch. In this case, the radio will only work when the ignition is on. Attention! Some car enthusiasts connect the yellow and red wires, but this is not recommended - the battery may quickly discharge.
  • The wide black wire is negative. It is attached to the body of the car.
  • The white wire with a blue stripe allows you to use a subwoofer, amplifier and antenna.
  • The gray one is for connecting to the “+” terminal, which is located on the front right speaker.
  • Gray with a black stripe is connected to the same speaker (terminal “-”).
  • White is the “+” terminal of the front left sound element.
  • White with black - the same speaker, “negative” terminal.
  • The green one must be connected to the “+” terminal of the rear speaker.
  • Green and black are the same, but at a minus level.
  • Purple - to the one located behind, on the right side, on the “+”; its “brother” with a black stripe - besides, the dynamics are set to “-”.

Do-it-yourself installation of a 1 din radio

The necessary tools are a screwdriver and a set of plastic clamps.

If you work according to the standard scheme with ISO connectors, then no problems will arise - you just need to follow the rules described above and connect the connectors to the mating parts.

If your car does not have the ability to use the conventional option, you will have to resort to a more complex wiring procedure. It works as follows.

  1. Using a screwdriver, remove the decorative panel from the mounting location.
  2. We remove the plugs from the wires and connect the wires with the mating ones in the right places, according to the color scheme.
  3. We insulate each connection point as carefully as possible to prevent short circuit damage.
  4. To increase reliability, it is recommended to connect the wires with clamps.
  5. If your radio comes with steel plates with eyelets, place them on the sides of the head unit. This will make it possible to easily remove the equipment from its seat.

Working with 2 din car radios

The process is similar, but there are a few nuances.

It is advisable to install such radios on battery power, since this will make it possible to use it at full power and reduce interference. It is not recommended to connect the device to the cigarette lighter or ignition switch.

  • If the car does not have standard wiring from the battery, you will need a copper stranded wire with a cross-section of approximately 4.2 mm 2. Those that come with the radio are not suitable - they are test ones and do not have a sufficient cross-section. The length of the wire should be equal to the distance from the installation site of the radio to the battery. Install a 20 amp fuse at a distance of approximately 50 cm from the battery.
  • You cannot twist the wire for a 2 din car radio - this will lead to interference and loss of power.
  • The wires are connected to the batteries only at the final stage, when everything is assembled and insulated.

Connecting "Pioneer" to the multifunction steering wheel

If you need to install a non-standard radio in a car with a multifunction steering wheel and not lose control from its buttons, use an adapter. They are universal and specialized for specific brands. Look in stores for an adapter for a multifunction steering wheel. Its connection is carried out as follows:

  • disconnect the battery from the car’s on-board network;
  • remove the standard radio and pockets, if any;
  • find the ISO connector for connecting the car radio - the adapter will be installed in it;
  • connect the adapter cable (supplied with it) to the radio, and the adapter itself to the ISO connector of the car;
  • configure the steering wheel buttons;
  • reconnect the battery to the network.

Video: connecting the Pioneer radio to the multifunction steering wheel via the Zexma adapter

Connecting Pioneer is a simple matter if you follow the above rules. Disconnect the battery, watch the colors of the wires and you won't have any problems.