VAZ 

We change the timing belt on a UAZ Patriot Iveco (diesel). Changing the timing belt on a UAZ Patriot Iveco (diesel) Installing a timing chain on a 409 UAZ engine

So to speak, the “front of work”:

Camshaft drive with shoes: 1 – crankshaft sprocket; 2, 8 – chain tension shoe; 3, 9 – hydraulic tensioner; 4 – first stage circuit; 5 – driven intermediate shaft sprocket; 6 – drive intermediate shaft sprocket; 7 – shoe bolt support; 10 – soundproofing washer; 11 – second stage circuit; 12,18 – installation marks on the sprockets; 13.17 – mounting pins; 14 – intake camshaft sprocket; 15 – upper chain guide; 16 – exhaust camshaft sprocket; 19 – upper plane of the cylinder head; 20 – medium chain damper; 21 – lower chain stabilizer; M1 and M2 – installation marks on the cylinder block

Chains

To assemble the timing belt, you need to decide what to install.
I liked the single-row chains very much for their quiet operation and good pick-up with ease of spinning the motor.
People came up to us and asked what kind of engine it was, it worked so quietly at XX.

The problem is the single-row chains that are used.
The chains are weak and sometimes poor quality. Statistics confirm it!

The chains used in the 406-409 motor family are conditionally tied to the environmental class Euro2, Euro3, Euro4.
But they have nothing to do with ecology, this is some kind of designation for understanding which timing kit can be installed. But not a fact!

And we will also follow this link. Some of the data below is from NOT VERIFIED sources, we will indicate that this is not verified information.

Single-row Euro4 plates consist of a package of plates with axles.

- Euro4 leaf chains factory, they are Kirovskie, they are economy. But as per rumors! Since the chains are produced in China and in the cheapest version, they do not last very long. For the most part, they are the reason why the engine fails in the first place. These are rumors and conversations on forums and in stores.
Our factory kit has gone through 8 thousand. True, no signs of chain stretching or wear.

- Leaf chains Euro4 CZ. According to rumors, they are produced in China, but they are of very good quality. There are few statistics. We drove 5 thousand km on them. We can't say anything bad. If it weren't for the broken bolts, everything would have been well possible. The appearance of course does not inspire great reliability, the design is a bit thin

- Single row bushings. The most unreliable ones, subject to severe stretching and breakage over low mileage, are now not found on sale.

- Bushing 2-row Euro2. The diameter of the sleeve is 5mm. So called Kirovskie. Better than single row ones. Marking triangle with dots in the corners.

- Bushing 2-row Euro2 Sleeve diameter 5mm manufacturer spare parts Ditton, the so-called Baltic. Not very bad quality, except: They are sleeved, heavy and rumored! manufactured for low speed chain drives

- Bushing 2-row Euro3 Sleeve diameter 6.35mm manufacturer Kirov, Akmashholding. We wrote about them above, but with a 5mm bushing. Everything is true for these too.

- Bushing 2-row Euro3 Bushing diameter 6.35mm manufacturer spare parts Ditton, everything is the same as for Euro2 only the bushing is 6.35mm

Double-row bushing-roller- are good because they change the force of sliding friction to rolling friction. The axle on the bushing chain slides, and the bushing-roller chain rolls on the bushing. Less friction force, less heating, wear of tooth cavities, shoes....

Manufacturer CZ, Czech.

- Bush-roller 2-row Euro3 manufacturer AST, they are European. The quality is not bad and, given the design, they should last at least 150 thousand km. But! They, like the Czech ones, are heavy!

- Bush-roller single-row Euro3 manufacturer AST. Taking into account everything written above, they should work for at least 100 thousand km. They are also good because they weigh little. 632 grams for 2 chains versus 1.158 grams, for example, for 2-row Czechs. Almost 2 times less rotation mass

- Bush-roller single-row reinforced Euro3 manufacturer AST. They are reinforced due to the thickness of the side plate increased by one and a half times. All of the above is true for AST circuits

Photos:

CZ Euro3


CZ Euro4


AST Euro3


We have not analyzed all the circuits that exist, but such a list is enough to understand the processes. Come, we’ll help you choose!

So, we need reliable single-row, lightweight and inexpensive chains. AST single row. Although? You can also install reinforced...

About Tensioners.

I don’t like hydraulic tensioners with a 22mm stroke without a stopper. I don’t like the stack of five-ruble notes for the hydraulic tensioner. So it will be mechanical.

Again we pick up Rusmash and AST. They are similar in principle of operation. Rack with pawl, rod with spring. Recharging is a couple of trifles, 1 minute right in your hands. The tensioner does not have a reverse motion as is the case with hydraulic tensioners. To do this, you need to recharge.

The AST tensioner is more modern, but for installation on a Patriot with air conditioning, minor modifications to the tensioner body are required. The generator and air conditioner bracket is in the way. RusMash is inserted into the standard cover.

Tensioners, from left to right: AST mechanics, RusMash, ZMZ hydraulic tensioner


Inside AST


We have tried a lot of different hydraulic tensioners, they are all the same in principle of operation, they differ only in design and quality.

Intermediate shaft

There are composite shafts (factory) and whole ones (Progress)


Here is the source (key) of the last breakage of the gear block bolts


Intermediate gears

We came to an important unit, the block of intermediate gears!
They are most often composite (combined) due to manufacturability and, as always, cost. And there are also disadvantages:

Potential play in the mating of 2 gears (check when you buy! There should not be any) The bolts do not hold the load when the axle rotates; there is a pin for that. But if there is a gap, it will break the shaft.

The large gear is soft cast iron, and the oval locking washer is steel and hard (heat treated). The gear wears out and backlash appears. If you don’t believe me, look at the signs of wear by looking at the used gear flange to the shaft.

In essence, this is a gearbox that increases the speed of the HF. And also alternating loads on the axis of rotation.

We did not check the rotation axes of these 2 gears, but if you set yourself a goal, you can assemble the unit and twist it in the centers to see. The theory says that there will be beats. And the more, the greater the backlash in the mating unit

The large gear is easily worn out by the chain, because The chain is hard and the gear is soft.

There is also the quality of tooth processing and a bunch of parameters....


Traces of wear from a hard oval plate on a soft gear (and oil flows out into that hole from below... remember I showed in the first part)

There are compound stars.
Small steel with high-frequency teeth, and large cast iron without heat treatment


There are whole ones. AST. Please note that both edges of the teeth are hardened with high-frequency heat.


Crankshaft gear

Now about the crankshaft gear.
The tooth (in addition to the quality of the cutter) must be heat treated, but the flange is not processed. The fit on the crankshaft is tight, it’s difficult to do with your hands. Warm up a little, freely. If the size is too small, it is easy to put on, be sure to fix it using thread locks (medium fixation thread sealants)

On the left is Euro4, on the right are all the others.
The KV Euro4 gear is installed, the right side looks inside the engine, the left side looks out)

Camshaft gears.

They come in 2 types (in addition to tooth shape, width, etc.): split and solid. They differ in different methods for accurately setting the required valve timing.

The topic of the article is the ZMZ 406 timing belt. We will talk about a set with double-row chains. When a standard car comes to replace the timing belt, that’s one thing. When a UAZ Patriot arrives on 33 wheels or a medical gazelle with a ton of equipment on top of the dry mass, it’s different. To the question what to put? Single-row chain, double-row, or keep the wonderful gear-plate design? The answer is clear: double-row chains. But there is a stalemate on the market, when there is nothing decent, but cars need to be made. For this reason, the ZMZ 406, 405, 409 timing kit was born, which I offer to your attention.

Timing belt ZMZ 406, situation

I have changed several dozen timing belts on these engines with my own hands and have a fairly good idea of ​​the situation in my region (St. Petersburg and the surrounding area). What clients brought in “factory boxes” or with magical names of double and tenfold resource, I, of course, installed, but I took a receipt from people in which I warned that I did not like the quality, even visually. Very often they brought kits from the Progress company. But they have their own problem. Almost every set was individual. There were no identical sets. Either different manufacturers of chains, or not the same gears that were “yesterday”. Accordingly, quality floats like a “violet in an ice hole.” Rusmash produces good kits, but they do not make adjustable stars. The best, in my opinion, are the Rhodes-M kits (Medvedev I.A.), but unfortunately they are poorly available for logistical reasons. Today there is, and then for a couple of months there may be a failure in delivery. Sometimes more. Based on these reasons, it was decided to assemble a kit for clients and services, which can be given a decent guarantee, and most importantly, meets modern technical requirements. And I also tried to implement what was asked from all over Russia. The kit should include EVERYTHING that may be needed for replacement, including a cuff, gaskets, half rings, and you can even order additional ones. That is, to carry out a major overhaul of the gas distribution mechanism and forget about it for a very long time.

Timing belt ZMZ 406, my version

  1. 4 stars (Rusmash). .
  2. Tensioner shoes (Rusmash or Rhodes-M)
  3. Tensioners 2 pcs. (Rusmash)
  4. Euro-2 dampers
  5. Crankshaft seal
  6. Set of gaskets (pump and tensioner gaskets, 2 chain cover gaskets)
"Leningrad set" timing belt for ZMZ 406, 405, 409

In the extended version, the kit is supplemented with a bottle of brake cleaner, sealant and medium-grade thread locker. This is all that I use when replacing timing belts on these engines. I have already described a lot of this list separately on the pages of the site. I will dwell on those points that have not been encountered before or are quite important when replacing the timing belt.

Spare parts may include a pump and a flush valve. But if the pump can then always be installed in a couple of hours, then replacing the oil seal means a new one, complete disassembly of the timing belt. Therefore, if the engine mileage is close to “one hundred” or more, find out in advance which store has a high-quality spare part. If you don’t need it, it’s good; if you need it, you’ll know where to buy it. The kit was tested in an ambulance. The inspection was carried out at 50 and 100 thousand kilometers. In the ambulance with the speed of running in round-the-clock operation, there are no problems)) Most of all I was interested in “chain pulling”. The camshafts “ran away” by 1-2 degrees over a given mileage from the initial setting. Which is within the margin of error. I was satisfied with this result.

Question answer

  • What warranty do you provide for this kit?

When I install this kit myself, I give a guarantee from 3 months to six months without mileage limitation, depending on the remaining condition of the engine. Of course, when it comes to our vast homeland, such guarantees would be stupid on my part. But I hope this reflects to customers the approximate reliability of the kit.

  • Is it possible or not to purchase part of this kit?

Maybe. For example, a client wants to re-rivet Mercedes chains, install different sprockets or tensioners. In this case, the price of the kit is calculated individually and of course there can be no guarantees on my part.

  • Do the components in this set change or not?

As I said above, for me personally, a similar approach from other manufacturers irritates and causes misunderstanding. Therefore, the main components of this set are unchanged. During the year of sales, compared to the initial photo, I only changed the chain tensioners. By replacing the tensioners with a wear indicator in the kits with regular ones without an indicator (from the same manufacturer). This was due to common sense logic: why do we need a wear indicator on the new “zero” double-row chains? Which may be needed after several years of operation. And the pricing of the kit is also an important thing.

The timing mechanism on the UAZ Patriot engine synchronizes the operation of the camshaft and crankshaft. Its functions also include establishing valve system opening cycles. The quality of the engine directly depends on the operation of this unit. In view of this, special attention must be paid to this node. Of course, a chain is practical and reliable, but it also stretches. In some cases, the chain may even break. The timing chain on the UAZ Patriot must be changed after 80,000 km. But this is only the recommended interval. In fact, the chain drive may become unusable even earlier. Its premature wear can be affected by factors such as weather conditions, driving style, and more. If you notice that the chain has begun to “clank,” this is a reason to inquire about its condition.

Here we will talk about how you can replace the chain yourself at home. Of course, you can turn to specialists, but this will cost money and, moreover, will not contribute to gaining experience, which is so necessary for car enthusiasts who want to learn to understand technology. The timing mechanism of the UAZ Patriot has 2 chains, which makes replacing consumables a difficult task. But don’t think that only professionals can do this. Every car enthusiast will be able to replace the chain with his own hands, you just need to make every effort to do this.

Signals for replacement

Over time, the chain's hinge joints wear out and it stretches. It is necessary to change the chain in the case when it is no longer possible to adjust its tension, when there is a mismatch of marks on the shafts. If chips or any other damage appears on the chain, this also means that the consumable has served its purpose and it’s time to replace it with a new one. When the chain is stretched, the engine runs unevenly and a grinding noise is constantly heard. In this case, the car will no longer start the first time. Also, a stretched chain causes the car to “eat” more fuel. A stretched chain can slip over the sprocket. In the end, it may simply break off, which will cause the pistons to hit the valves. The latter will be bent due to this, and the car will need major repairs.

A chain, of course, is somewhat more practical than a belt, but its service life is eventually exhausted and it requires replacement. If you decide that you will carry out this procedure yourself, then strictly follow the instructions below, and you will definitely succeed.

Replacing consumables

Work should only be carried out when the engine has cooled down. Before carrying out major work, the radiator should be dismantled. Remove the hose that supplies cooling to the pump by loosening the clamp securing it. We remove the cover covering the cylinder block by unscrewing the 4 mounting bolts. Remove the water pump. Now you need to remove the crankshaft timing sensor and its pulley. Remove the chain tensioner cover. It is removed along with the gasket. When dismantling the casing, care must be taken as the tensioner spring presses on it. We remove the tensioner. In the same way, we remove the tensioner acting on the lower chain.

Now you can remove the chain cover. To do this you will have to unscrew 7 bolts. You need to remove it carefully, trying not to damage the gaskets. Now remove the upper and lower tensioner arms along with the gears. We remove the chain guide, which is secured with two bolts. We dismantle the camshaft gears, which are bolted to the flanges.

When perceiving the following information, refer to the photo below, as the necessary parts will be numbered here. Unscrew the bolts (2) and lift the upper chain guide. Bend the locking plate (6) and unscrew the bolts (5). The intermediate shaft must be secured so that it does not rotate. To do this, insert a screwdriver into the hole (3). Now remove the gear (4) by inserting a thin screwdriver between it and the gear (4). Now we remove the gear (4) and take out the chain, which should be pulled up to do this. Now remove the gear (3) and remove the lower chain.

Now let's look at the next picture below. Remove the bushing (1), and then remove the gear (2). You will also have to remove the rubber seal. Now we compress the gear (2) and remove the gears. For this purpose, you can use a special puller.

After dismantling, the gears should be washed in gasoline and wiped with a rag. It is possible that the gears will also need to be replaced. This will be necessary if chips or cracks are noticed on them. Most likely, the dampers will also need to be changed, since plastic is a fragile material. Also check the condition of the tensioners. They have to be changed if there are chips on the sprocket teeth.

If you removed the crankshaft gear, then when assembling the mechanism, you will have to press it onto the crankshaft. After this we install the seal and bushing. Pay attention to the alignment of the marks. The crankshaft should be turned so that mark (1) (see photo below) on the crankshaft aligns with mark (2) located on the cylinder block. In this case, the master cylinder piston should be in the TDC position. Install the damper (4). The bolts (3) should not be tightened too much yet. Now take the chain (5), lubricate it and put it on the crankshaft gear.

We put the chain on the main gear (1) (photo below) and on the intermediate shaft (2). Pay special attention to ensure that mark (4) aligns with mark (5). At this time, the section of the chain located on the damper (3) must be tensioned.

Now we tighten all the unscrewed bolts and check the alignment of the marks again. To do this, you need to tighten the chain by pressing on the tensioner.

Having previously lubricated the upper chain, we put it on the main gear of the intermediate shaft. It will have to be inserted into the hole located in the cylinder head. We insert the main gear and, turning the crankshaft to the right, put the chain on it. We tighten the chain by turning the camshaft counterclockwise. All other units must be assembled in the sequence in which they were disassembled.

As you can see, there is nothing particularly difficult here, you will definitely succeed.

Video instruction

Engine UAZ Patriot 409 from the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant have recently been brought to the Euro-4 environmental standard. In fact, this is an injection 406 engine, which was installed on the Volga and GAZelle. The actual design of the power units is very similar, in addition, the problems of the 406 motor were inherited by the ZMZ 409 engine. Below we offer a description and technical characteristics of the UAZ Patriot 409 engine.

The petrol, in-line, 4-cylinder, 16-valve unit has a cast iron cylinder block and an aluminum cylinder head. The cylinder head has two camshafts that rotate via a timing chain drive. The valve mechanism has hydraulic compensators that free you from manually adjusting the thermal clearance of 16 valves.

The gas distribution mechanism of the ZMZ 409 UAZ Patriot engine

The camshafts are cast from cast iron. To achieve high wear resistance of the working surface, the cams were whitened. The shafts rotate in bearings formed by the cylinder head and removable aluminum covers. These covers are machined together with the cylinder head and are therefore not interchangeable. The camshaft drive is a two-stage chain drive. Includes: crankshaft sprocket 1, driven 5 and driven 6 intermediate shaft sprockets, driven camshaft sprockets 12 and 14, two chains (72 and 92 links) 4 and 9, hydraulic tensioners with reinforced spring 2 and 8, tensioner arms 3 and 7 and chain guides 13, 16 and 17. The chain tension of each stage is carried out by hydraulic tensioners located: one on the front cover of the cylinder block (chain cover), the other on the cylinder head.

  • 1 – crankshaft sprocket
  • 2 – lower hydraulic tensioner
  • 3 – lower chain tensioner lever
  • 4 – lower chain
  • 5 – driven intermediate shaft sprocket
  • 6 – drive intermediate shaft sprocket
  • 7 – upper chain tensioner lever
  • 8 – upper hydraulic tensioner
  • 9 – upper chain
  • 10 – installation mark on the sprocket
  • 11 – locating pins
  • 12 – intake camshaft sprocket
  • 13 – upper chain guide
  • 14 – exhaust camshaft sprocket
  • 15 – upper plane of the cylinder head
  • 16 – medium chain guide
  • 17 – lower chain guide
  • M1 and M2 – installation marks on the block

Perhaps it is difficult mechanism of the timing device 409 of the UAZ Patriot engine causes a lot of trouble when operating the engine. Lack of oil pressure quickly damages hydraulic compensators; it is necessary to carefully monitor the oil level in the engine. And frequent breakdowns of hydraulic chain tensioners cause an unpleasant sound. The problem is solved by installing imported hydraulic tensioners and regularly changing high-quality oil. It is worth noting that the valves are interchangeable with similar valves of the VAZ-2108 engine. Further characteristics of the UAZ Patriot gasoline engine.

Engine UAZ Patriot 2.7 ZMZ 409 (128 hp) characteristics, fuel consumption

  • Working volume – 2693 cm3
  • Number of cylinders – 4
  • Number of valves – 16
  • Cylinder diameter – 95.5 mm
  • Piston stroke – 94 mm
  • Power hp/kW – 128/94.1 at 4600 rpm
  • Torque – 209.7 Nm at 2500 rpm
  • Compression ratio – 9
  • Type timing/timing drive – DOHC/chain
  • Fuel brand – gasoline AI 92
  • Ecological class – Euro-4
  • Maximum speed – 150 km/h
  • Acceleration to 100 km/h – n/a
  • Fuel consumption in the city - n/a
  • Combined fuel consumption - n/a
  • Fuel consumption on the highway – 11.5 liters

This engine is very voracious, this is perhaps the main problem of the Patriot with this power unit at the moment. A rather outdated design that will not please you with its reliability. However, the price of the new UAZ Patriot makes us turn a blind eye to such disadvantages.

You will need: a 6-point hex key, 12-point, 13-point, 14-point sockets, a small chisel, and a hammer.

1. Drain the cooling system (see “Replacing the coolant”).

2. Remove the radiator of the cooling system (see “Removing and installing the radiator”).

3. Remove the power steering pump drive belt and fan pulley (see “Replacing the power steering pump drive belt and cooling fan drive viscous clutch”).

4. Remove the generator and water pump drive belt (see “Replacing the generator and water pump drive belt”).

9. Remove the crankshaft speed sensor (synchronization sensor) (see “Engine management system sensors”).

10. Remove the crankshaft pulley (see “Replacing the crankshaft oil seals”).

11. Remove the oil sump (see “Replacing the oil sump seal”).

14. Remove the seven bolts and remove the chain cover. Remove the cover carefully so as not to damage the front crankshaft oil seal installed in it, the cover gaskets and the cylinder head gasket.

15. Remove the upper tensioner bolt and remove the tensioner lever with sprocket.

16. Similarly, remove the lower tensioner arm with the sprocket.

19. Unscrew the bolts 2 and lift up the chain guide 1. Bend the ends of the locking plate 6 and turn out the bolt 5, to do this, hold the intermediate shaft from turning by inserting a screwdriver into the hole of gear 3. Remove gear 4 by inserting a screwdriver between it and gear 3 and resting the screwdriver as a lever against gear 3. Remove gear 4 from the top chain and remove the chain by pulling it up. Remove gear 3 from the intermediate shaft and remove it from the lower chain. Remove the lower chain from the crankshaft gear.

20. If it is necessary to remove gear 2 from the crankshaft, first remove bushing 1 and the rubber sealing ring between the bushing and the gear. Then compress gear 2 using a puller.

21. After removal, wash the chains and gears in gasoline, wipe and dry them.

22. Inspect the chains. If the chain bushings are cracked, chipped, or show significant wear, replace the chains.

23. Replace gears whose teeth are chipped or chipped.

24. Replace damaged chain guides.

25. The tensioner sprockets must rotate freely on the axles. If the sprocket teeth are chipped or chipped, replace the tensioners.

26. If you removed the gear from the crankshaft, press it onto the crankshaft, install the O-ring and bushing.

27. Rotate the crankshaft so that mark 1 on the crankshaft gear aligns with mark 2 on the cylinder block. In this case, the piston of the 1st cylinder will take the TDC position. Install chain guide 4 without tightening bolts 3 securing the guide. Place chain 5 on the crankshaft gear, having previously lubricated it with engine oil.

28. Place the chain on driven gear 1 and install the gear on the countershaft 2 so that the gear locating pin fits into the hole in the countershaft. In this case, mark 4 on the gear must coincide with mark 5 on the cylinder block, and the chain branch passing through damper 3 must be tensioned.

29. Install the countershaft drive gear so that its locating pin fits into the hole in the driven gear.

30. Screw in the two bolts securing the intermediate shaft gears, placing a locking plate under them. Tighten the bolts to a torque of 22–25 N·m (2.2–2.5 kgf·m) and secure them by bending the edges of the locking plate on the edge of the bolt heads.

31. Press the tensioner lever, tighten the chain and check the alignment of the marks on the gears and the cylinder block.

32. Tighten the chain guide bolts.

33. Lubricate the upper chain with engine oil and then slide it onto the countershaft drive gear through the hole in the cylinder head.

34. Place the chain on gear 2 and, turning the exhaust camshaft slightly clockwise, install gear 2 with the chain on it. The camshaft pin 8 should fit into the gear hole. Screw in bolt 1. Turn the camshaft using a wrench using the square on the camshaft. Then, slightly turn the camshaft counterclockwise to tighten the chain. The intermediate and crankshafts should not turn. Mark A should coincide with the top surface of the cylinder head. Remove bolt 6 and remove gear 4 from the intake camshaft. Place the chain on gear 4 and install gear 4 with the chain on the camshaft by turning the camshaft slightly clockwise. The camshaft pin 5 should fit into the gear hole. Turn the camshaft slightly counterclockwise to tighten the chain. Mark A on gear 4 should align with the top surface of the cylinder head. The remaining shafts should not rotate. Screw in bolt 6. Tighten bolts 1 and 6 to a torque of 46–74 N·m (4.6–7.4 kgf·m), holding the camshafts from turning with a key using the squares. Install damper 3 by pushing it into the hole in the cylinder head. Install damper 7.

35. Install the chain cover and water pump. Apply a thin layer of Hermesil sealant or similar to the surfaces of the covers adjacent to the cylinder block and head. When installing the chain cover, be careful not to damage the crankshaft oil seal.

36. Install the hydraulic tensioners of the upper and lower chains, see “Assembly (“charging”) and installation of hydraulic chain tensioners”. Install the crankshaft pulley. Screw in the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt, then, engaging fifth gear and braking the car with the parking brake, tighten the bolt to a torque of 104–128 N·m (10.4–12.8 kgf·m), holding the crankshaft from turning. When the ratchet is tightened, the pulley is pressed onto the crankshaft.

37. Turn the crankshaft two turns using the ratchet and set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC position (see operation 3). Check that the marks match.

38. Install the front cylinder head cover; first apply a layer of Hermesil sealant to the surface of the cover adjacent to the cylinder head. Tighten the cover mounting bolts to a torque of 12–18 N·m (1.2–1.8 kgf·m).

39. Install the cylinder head cover. Tighten the cover mounting bolts to a torque of 6.0–12 N·m (0.6–1.2 kgf·m). Connect the hose and crankcase ventilation tube to the fittings on the valve cover, and the wires to the ignition coils. Place the ends of the high-voltage wires on the spark plugs.

40. Install the previously removed attachments.